- Chapter 1 : Rifle Scopes 101
- Chapter 2 : Types of Rifle Scopes
- Chapter 3 : What Scope is Best for you?
- Chapter 4 : Matching A Scope to Your Rifle
- Chapter 5 : How to Mount a Rifle Scope
- Chapter 6 : How to Sight in a Rifle Scope
- Chapter 7 : Common Mistakes When Choosing A Rifle Scope
- Chapter 8 : 5 Tips for Getting the Right Scope
- Chapter 9 : Scope FAQ
- What’s the best riflescope magnification?
- Do I need a fixed or variable magnification scope?
- What size objective lens do I need for my riflescope?
- Which riflescope reticle should I choose?
- What is parallax?
- Why are the scope adjustments always called windage and elevation?
- What does the term MOA or Minute of Angle mean and why is it used?
Chapter 1 : Rifle Scopes 101
The allure of scopes has never been as high as it has been in the last couple of decades. Most of this has to do with the proliferation of snipers and long-range shooters in popular culture. This isn’t a negative but just the realization of the power of being able to reach out such a distance and still tag your target. Whether you are a hunter or shooting matches, there is a lot of enjoyment in the use of a good scope.Before you get that far, there is a lot to understand about a scope and a lot of misinformation that leads people to believe a scope can do more than what it can. The first thing to remember is that a scope makes longer range shots possible but not easy. Understanding scopes starts with understanding their basic components
Rifle Scope Basics
Scopes are all about optics and magnification. It comes down to the glass but there are parts of the scope to understand before we get to the glass. There are parts of a scope body and their function that are vital to the accuracy of a scope. Scopes have a variety of knobs that serve different functions.
The first of these adjustments we need to understand are the windage/elevation adjustments. These are located approximately mid-body on the scope and are used to adjust the relationship between the reticle and the bullet trajectory. Simply put, the windage adjustment will move the reticle left and right and the elevation will move the reticle up and down. When properly set, the bullet will impact right at the junction of the crosshair in the reticle.
All scopes will have windage and elevation adjustments but the best scopes take those adjustments and apply them to easy to use turrets. This is more a feature on tactical and military scopes but is very effective for long range hunting and target shooting. It is one way of taking the guesswork out of each shot.
Most scopes will have some form of focus either as a secondary knob or by turning the eyepiece. This is simply to move the ocular lens in relation to the other lenses to get the view into focus. The impact of this on accuracy is minimal but a poorly focused scope will be slightly off.
A scope may or may not have a parallax focus know that adjust the scope to a different eye relief. Usually, this is unimportant for most users and only comes on the highest end scopes. Proper eye relief is vital to accuracy, this is just a way of ensuring you are shooting with proper eye relief and are still in a comfortable position.
Many scopes come with variable magnification and will often have a ring that adjusts the magnification somewhere near the forward end of the eyepiece. While variable magnification is a nice attribute to have, be cautious as most scopes are only accurate at the magnification that they were sighted in at. If you change the magnification it will adjust the impact in relation to the crosshair.
Some very high-end scopes may have an illumination adjustment. This is only for adjusting the light level in the scope to accommodate shooting in different light levels. While there are some scopes that use artificial light, the illumination is usually just a matter of adjusting how much light is allowed into the scope at the objective end.
Starting off with the glass, there are two lenses that are of primary interest. The one at the shooters end of the scope is the Ocular Lens and the one at the target end is the Objective Lens.
The Ocular Lens alone is not of concern as all of the traits of the scope that it affects will be reflected in things like field of view, eye relief, and focal plane. This isn’t to say it isn’t important but is generally not a selling point on its own.
Conversely, the Objective Lens is of major concern. The primary effect of a larger objective lens is more brightness in a scope. As the magnification of a scope increases, the darker the scope will seem. The answer to this is a larger objective lens.
Many people think that a larger objective lens means more magnification but this isn’t precisely true. A thicker lens will be needed to get more magnification and to maintain the appropriate profile, you will need a somewhat larger lens but those scopes with huge objective lenses are attempting to control brightness, not magnification.
A large objective lens is not the only way to control brightness. Modern chemical engineering has developed coatings for lenses that help to provide clarity and brightness by filtering some of the light. This has to do with light spectrums and wavelengths and is far too complicated a topic to cover here. The important takeaway from this section is to understand the types of coatings and what impact they have.
Each company seems to have their own proprietary lens coating. Some are more effective than others but the end result is usually very similar. The most important factor in lens coating is the type of coating and how it is applied. There are four tiers going up in quality.
The simplest coating is usually just called ‘Coated’ and is a single layer coating applied to the objective lens to control glare and the spectrum of light allowed into the scope. Though this may sound simple it can have a dramatic impact on the effectiveness of the scope.
Following this are scopes that are ‘Fully Coated’ which have the single layer of coating on all optical surfaces. This will lead to a better view through the scope but is a minor step up from a coated lens. This is not a common option with modern scopes but a few budget options do use fully coated lenses. There are better ways of dealing with light for the same cost.
The third tier are lenses that are ‘Multi-Coated’ which means that the lens has several coats of different chemicals applied to the objective lens of the scope. This is a minor step up from fully coated optics but does make a difference. A good quality scope with a single multi-coated lens will be brighter than a cheaper scope that is fully coated.
The final tier of coatings are scopes that are ‘Fully Multi-Coated.’ These scopes are the pinnacle of performance and often have a price to match. Each lens is coated with multiple chemicals to increase brightness in the scope. The difference in the view through the scope with good fully multi-coated lenses is dramatic.
There are some scopes that have no optical coating. This is usually reserved for the most budget options. This was common on older scopes but in the current market, strive to get a scope with at least some lens coating.
There are more types of reticles than you could possibly cover in a basic article about scopes. Each has their strengths and weaknesses and many shooters swear by his or her reticle of choice. They range from very simple crosshairs to mil-based reticles that allow you to range in your scope and adjust holdover without the use of elevation knobs.
Some reticles are specifically tailored to certain calibers and loads to make things very easy but these are often only on the most expensive scopes out there and are usually designed for common military calibers and loads. These are probably beyond what the normal consumer would ever need.
Ignoring those, reticles can be broken down into three categories. The first and simplest of which is the simple cross with no additional markings. This is the oldest type of crosshair and can be very effective when matched with the proper shooter and scope adjustments.
The second category are scopes that have partial distance markings. This may be a few lines below the center of the cross or even some numerical lines. Generally, these are only used for bullet drop and can be quite effective when used properly. Most of these will be somewhat arbitrary distances loosely based on the drop of a certain caliber but may be in Mils or MOA.
The most advanced scopes have some form of fully market crosshair in a very specific style. There are tons of styles ranging from the common U.S. military styles to those used by other countries and even proprietary styles designed by the scope manufacturer. These are highly effective scopes provided you know how to use them properly. Otherwise, they are just clutter and will get in the way.
All scopes will have some form of marking. There are a ton of resources as to the proper use of each but for those new to long range shooting, simpler is often better. Don’t add complexity until you have broken down your form and are able to get repeatable shots on a basic scope.
Source : www.thefirearmblog.com
Eye relief is simply how far your eye can be away from the scope and allow for proper view through the scope without parallax (blackness around the edges). The two important factors that will dictate the proper eye relief of a scope.
If you wear glasses you will need at least 14mm of eye relief in order to properly use your scope. Most scopes have a larger eye relief than 14mm anyway but it is a point to be aware of. If you can’t get your eye close enough that the whole view through the scope is clear, you don’t have enough eye relief.
The second consideration is recoil. There is little that sucks less than getting a scope to the eye from a large caliber rifle. Some scopes are made with extended eye relief for just such rifles. Anything smaller than a .270 is probably safe with normal eye relief for anyone. Larger than that you need to consider the use and your own body to judge if you need a larger eye relief on your scope.
Magnification is the whole reason we want a scope in the first place, it’s the whole point. What magnification you want is a personal choice based on how you plan to use your scope. Most people just pick the largest magnification they can get but that is often a flawed approach. Just making the target look bigger is not the answer to getting long range hits.
Most scopes used by the military on anything short of the largest calibers are only 8 to 10 power scopes. This is plenty accurate with proper shooting technique are they are often much easier to sight in.
The important fact to remember is that a more powerful scope is capable of more precision in a shot but will take a lot more precision in the setup and sighting-in process to get it there. They are also more sensitive to changes and are often more often less durable.
The final consideration goes back to what we discussed in the Objective Lens and Coatings categories. A more magnified scope will appear darker and be harder to use in lower light. It will require a larger objective and more advanced coatings to be usable. One of the hallmarks of cheap scopes is to offer large magnification as a selling point and then not provide the objective lens or coatings you need to have a truly usable scope.
I would say that common magnifications are from 4x for scopes meant for shorter range engagements to around 40x for the longest-range scopes. There are a few that will be outside this range but they are very uncommon. Most scopes tend to be in the high teens and lower 20s.
Field of View
The Field of View is a simple principle often expressed as feet or yards at a specific distance such as 9’ at 100 yards. This means that at 100 yards you will be able to see about 9 feet from one edge of the scopes view to the other. The more magnification a scope has, generally the less FOV you will get.
The importance of FOV is really in being able to find your target when you look through your scope. If you can only see 6 feet and you are looking for a deer, you may have trouble finding it but if you have a FOV of 20 feet, it will be much easier.
This will often be a secondary consideration of scope selection but it is important to be mindful to the effects it can have on your scopes use. Simply put, you will be able to get on target faster with a larger field of view than you would with a tighter field of view.
Scopes with adjustable magnification will have a different field of view from one magnification to the next. The example of above of 6 feet at 100 yards is based on a 20-power scope. If you scale that back to 6-power your field of view could be 20 feet or more.
One last point of consideration that deals with scopes with variable magnification is the focal plane. As this is not a common item discussed it will be brief but very important. Under magnification, it was mentioned that when you change the magnification of your scope it will change the point of impact of the bullet. This is true of scopes that are second focal plane. A first focal plane will preserve the point of impact no matter the magnification. There are strengths and weaknesses to each.
A Second Focal Plane scope will have a reticle that stays the same no matter the magnification. This means that any numbers, values, or lines will stay the same size at every level of magnification. This can be handy with very complicated reticles that can quickly become overcrowded otherwise.
However, a First Focal Plane scope will always have the same point of impact no matter the magnification. Once you are sighted in, it is for any magnification you adjust to. You can tell the difference by seeing if the reticle magnifies as you increase magnification. These scopes are often preferred but generally cost much more.
Chapter 2 : Types of Rifle Scopes
As scopes are often variable in their uses and can be used for a variety of purposes, there are some purposes that benefit from some specific traits in a scope. We will cover some specifics of scopes dependent on your purpose later but to break scopes down into classifications, we will use some broader generalizations.
While everything seems to have tactical tagged onto it as a selling point these days, a true tactical scope is a specific piece of equipment. To be clear, a 40x scope with a massive objective lens may look cool but it's not a tactical scope.
A tactical scope will have lower magnification, maybe as low as 4x and be used to extend the range of engagement from what open sights are effective for. This would be the role of a Designated Marksman in the U.S. military rather than a sniper.
The idea is to take the engagement range from the standard 300 meters of a normal infantry rifle to around 600 meters by use of low magnification while not limiting the close-range capacity. This is the norm for a tactical scope.
While I hesitate to call this a sniper scope, the extended range scopes used by the military can best be classified by that job. These still aren’t the super-powered scopes that most people stick on their rifles but are generally only moderate powered optics with very specific setups for the rifle used by military snipers.
Most hunting scopes are fairly simple affairs with very few extra features. They need to be easy to use and capable of handling time in the woods without being affected by harsh elements or the occasional impact with trees or other obstacles.
The most common hunting scopes are less than 20 power with a plain reticle. They may be a variable power or a fixed power but will generally have a larger objective to allow more light for a brighter and more clear view.Anything more than a 20-power scope is often excessive; many hunters stick to scopes very similar to the power of a military scope around 8 or 10 power. They often lack adjustments other than those used for sighting in the scope initially.
This is where your large power scopes tend to shine. Some of the most powerful scopes on the market are used to shoot low powered .22 competitions where pinpoint accuracy is required, usually shooting at a dot smaller than an inch at 50 yards or more.
If you are looking at a 40x scope, the only viable use is in competition. You can get away with less durability and can worry less about light transition when you are shooting at times that are often well lit and sitting at a bench.
Chapter 3 : What Scope is Best for you?
Though the last section somewhat covers this, to break it down to specifics we will go through the multitude of uses that a scope may be applied and attempt to define the exact characteristics that are best suited to that need.These are only basic guidelines as you may want a scope that can cover multiple uses such as target shooting and hunting. At some point, you have to make some concession in one use to cover the needs of another.
Tactical or Military
For the collector or hobbyist, having a military styled weapon is a big point of pride and can be a cornerstone of a collection. If this is your goal, your best bet is to emulate what the military uses to some degree.
A tactical scope will have low magnification, often 6x or lower worldwide and will be typically smaller and easy to maneuver. The adjustments will often be simple if there are any on the fly adjustments at all. Keep your objective lens smaller and use a mil-dot or similar reticle.
For a military scope used for longer ranges, use a 10x scope with turret adjustments and a mil-dot or similar reticle. The whole scope needs to be slim in profile and very durable. This is the cornerstone of the scope market and has been for a long time. Finding a scope to emulate a military setup is often very easy.
There are potential legal ramifications for use of a rifle with scope for home defense but there are also some good reasons to have such a weapon available. You don’t want to be marked as someone looking for a fight by the law but if you have poor eyesight or other reason to believe that you may need more range or accuracy to defend yourself, choosing an optic isn’t out of the picture.
The basic recommendation would be similar to the tactical scopes above but you could opt for something as low as a 3x scope but you should avoid anything larger than a 6x scope that could severely limit your ability to use your rifle at closer ranges.
The most common optic for home defense has no magnification at all and are more of a sight than a scope but adding in that little bit of magnification may make a difference.
A good hunting scope can be a lot of things from a low power scope less than 10x all the way to a 20x scope for longer range shooting. Much depends on what you plan to hunt and the terrain you hunt in. You will be able to use a higher power scope in the plains of the mid-west than you could in the woodlands of Appalachia.
More important than magnification will be the clarity and brightness of the image through the scope. A good optic would be multi-coated or better and have a larger objective to be able to pick out the deer or squirrel that blends in so well with its environment. A good field of view is also important as most animals don’t stand still for long and being able to follow their movement while waiting on that perfect shot is vital.
As far as reticles and adjustments, keep it simple. There is no need to overcomplicate your optic when you can get by with a very simple crosshair and no turrets.
Competition - Action Shooting
For the more active type of shooting competitions like 3-gun, keep your scope more tuned to the tactical side of things. Magnification should be lower to make use of the speed on not having to search for targets. And the reticle can be as simple as you can get by with. Don’t overthink things. It will only slow you down.Many people opt for red dot sights for this but adding a little magnification can be an improvement if you have the need to engage somewhat farther targets quickly. Something around a 4x scope would be the max I would recommend.
Long Range Competition
For long range competitions, you first need to consider what long range is compared to the caliber you are shooting and the size of your target. Something the size of a man at 1000 yards is not so different from something an inch across at 100 yards. Either will benefit from more precision and that means more magnification.
If there were a use for those scopes in the 30x and 40x range, it would be for competitions that usually occur in decent lighting and with minimal need to move your rifle around when its set up. You can go as complicated as you feel comfortable with turret adjustments and reticles with some form of markings. This is a fun way to utilize some of the most advanced scopes on the market.
Read more: Long Range Rifle Scope Reviews
Some of the most fun you can have with a scoped rifle is just at play on the local target range. You can use what you want and how you want to use it by going for targets that are comparatively smaller or larger for your range and caliber.
For my fellow plinkers, the world is your oyster. Get any scope you like and use it how you like. It’s a great way to become a better shooter and really have a lot of fun. Magnification isn’t important, use a much or as little as you like for your style of fun shooting. You can even get by with a budget scope as the shooting will rarely be demanding.
Chapter 4 : Matching A Scope to Your Rifle
There are a variety of factors that can help you determine what is the best scope for the setup you have. Though the previous section covered use, that is by far not the only gauge you should use to find what is best suited for your rifle. Both the caliber and platform you use are also points you should consider.
Pistol Caliber and Centerfire AR Platforms
This would cover most of your AR-15 type rifles as well as the many tactical rifles designed to fill the same role. These are intended for shorter ranges of less than 300 yards and lack the power or range to fully utilize some of the powerful optics that people stick on them.
Most people would be well served by a red-dot sight but if you choose to have magnification, something in the 4-power range works very well in a home defense situation. You have no need to go with anything more.
The one exception to this is for those who use an AR style rifle for varmint hunting who may elect to go with an 8 or 10 power scope instead.
Lower Powered Centerfire Rifles and Lever Action Rifles
For those who use bolt action rifles in .243 and smaller, you really don’t need a scope that exceeds 10 power and can often get by with less. A common scope for these rifles is actually around 12 power and does a good job.The same is true for lever guns in calibers like .30-30 or even .44 mag. Something around 8 power is a perfect scope for these guns as you will rarely need to shoot farther than you comfortable can at that level of magnification.
Larger Bolt Action Rifles
For rifles chambered in calibers of .270 or larger, you can go with more powerful optics to reach out comfortably to the ranges your rifle can reasonably hit. Most people will rarely be able to use anything more than a 20x scope. Those that are larger are somewhat unreasonable for these calibers.
Once you move into the area of .338 Lapua and other dedicated extreme range calibers, feel free to go with the most powerful scope you can lay your hands on. This is where those 40x magnification scopes really come in handy.
.22 and .17 Rifles
Considering their limited range, you would expect to be best served by a low power scope around an 8x but you have to consider that many people use these small-bore rifles on very small targets, opting for something with very high magnification is quite common.If you use your .22 for hunting, something in 8x is quite reasonable but for small bore matches having something in the 30-power range is still an acceptable choice. This is one place where scope selection is much more about intended use than it is about range. The size of your target it the deciding factor.
Chapter 5 : How to Mount a Rifle Scope
There are two components to mounting a scope; rings and bases. There are also a few tools that will make your life a lot easier and prevent damage to your scope or the mounting hardware. At a minimum, you should have a torque style screwdriver like the Wheeler Fat Wrench and a set of good gunsmith’s screwdrivers.
A special note is that guns with rails may not need bases as there are scope rings designed to mate with either Picatinny, Weaver, or dovetailed rails. If your gone does not have a rail, it will often come with a pre-tapped receiver to mount bases too. This will be apparent by several small screws in the top of the receiver that apparently do nothing.
The first step will be to remove those screws and attach your scope bases in their place. I often use a small bit of Loctite Blue to make sure it stays tight but only a small bit. You can check the specs on your rifle to see the recommended tightness of the screws holding the bases on and use the Wheeler Fat Wrench to make sure they aren’t too tight which could cause issues with the function of your rifle.
Next, install the lower half of the rings on the bases and loosely tighten them just to the point they do not move. This is another good spot for a drop of Loctite. If you have rails you are attaching to, make sure the rings are spaced appropriately for your scope by comparing the scope to the location of your bases. Allow a little room to be able to move the scope back and forth to get the right placement.
Next will be actually placing the scope into the rings. You don’t want to tighten at this point, just place the top of each ring on and tighten the screws just enough to say in place. You will want to Loctite these later but not yet.
Probably 8 out of 10 scopes are placed too far back on the rifle and can cause issues with their use or even injury. While your scope can still be moved, place it on your shoulder in the normal firing position and slide the scope in the rings until you have the proper view through the scope and everything is comfortable. Gently tighten down the screws just tight enough to hold the scope in position.
First, tighten the bases up before moving on to the tightening the rings. I recommend removing one screw from the rings at a time, applying a small drop of Loctite and then tightening it to the specifications of your scope manufacturer with the torque wrench. Overtightening the scope could destroy the optics inside the scope.
Take your time during this process and make sure it’s done right. It isn’t a hard process but it should be done with care and precision to avoid problems later.
Chapter 6 : How to Sight in a Rifle Scope
For some reason, many people believe that sighting in a scope is a hard process for professional shooters. While it does take a person that is a consistently good shot to do it properly, there is nothing hard about it. Like anything with a firearm, it just takes a little time and care.
Before you start you should always get your rifle bore sighted which can be done at most gun stores. You should also consider having a second person with you and a spotting scope or pair of binoculars for them to use. It will greatly ease the process.
Things you will need to sight in a rifle properly are a good target, preferably one that shows bullet impacts well and that has a very small bullseye, a gunsmith’s screwdriver to adjust the scope, 20 rounds of ammunition of good quality, sandbags or a gun vice, a permanent marker, and a comfortable pace on a range of at least 100 yards.
Getting on Paper
The first step is to get the rifle hitting the paper. Fire a single shot as accurately as possible and see if it hits anywhere on your target. This is where bore sighting and your shooting buddy can come in handy. Provided you know where you shot and which direction to adjust your scope, make the adjustments and try again. Once you are on the paper, move on to the next step.
Shoot a Group
Using the same point of aim on the target, shoot three rounds and mark the approximate center of those rounds with the permanent marker. Now for the tricky part, while holding the scope directly on the original point of aim either make the adjustments yourself or have your partner do it for you but move the crosshairs of the scope to the center of the group you marked.
The second group should be much closer to the bullseye. Repeat the same process above. This can be done as many times as needed until you are hitting the spot you are aiming. The trick is to be consistent with your shots and be patient, especially with high magnification scopes that can be much more difficult to get on very precise.
I have used this method on dozens of rifles and it has worked every time.
Chapter 7 : Common Mistakes When Choosing A Rifle Scope
The single most common mistake when choosing a scope is to get one far more powerful than is needed. Many first-time scope buyers get the most power they can find thinking that power = better but there are too many other factors to consider.
The second most common issue I see is purchasing scope rings that are too tall. Always get rings that will mount the scope as low as possible. Usually, the Objective Lens on the scope will dictate how low the scope can be mounted.
Just because a scope looks to have the same specifications as another does not mean they are the same. Quality glass is what really makes a scope shine and getting the best glass you can afford is far more important than getting more power or more features.
Chapter 8 : 5 Tips for Getting the Right Scope
- It should go without saying but always buy the best scope you can afford and look for names synonymous with quality. Read the reviews and go with the best you can get your hands on. In most cases, your scope will cost more than your rifle.
- Buy a scope for your needs and not just the most expensive scope or the one with the most features. Remember what was discussed in the sections on ‘What Scope is Best for You and ‘Matching a Scope to your Rifle.’
- Don’t be afraid to go to your local hunting shop and browse their selection and look through their scopes. Find what you like but shop around, often times you can get a better deal online.
- Don’t buy into the hype. Many scopes will boldly print their magnification on the box but will have any other features in small print. Remember that optical quality and lens coatings are a better gauge of quality than just magnification.
- Just because it looks tactical, doesn’t mean it is. Too many companies are producing scopes that try to look as tacti-cool as possible but have no substance. They aren’t good for anything, especially hard, tactical use that requires a lot of durability.
Chapter 9 : Scope FAQ
Though this article has attempted to answer any of these questions, to put everything in one place, here are some of the most common questions I see about rifle scopes:
What’s the best riflescope magnification?
If I had to pick one solid magnification to recommend to anyone for any situation it would be either an 8x or 10x scope. If I were to have only one scope it would be a variable 3-9x magnification.
Do I need a fixed or variable magnification scope?
In all respects, a fixed power scope will be of a higher quality and more durable than a variable scope of the same cost. There are benefits to each but most all militaries opt for fixed scopes that tend to be more reliable and consistent.
What size objective lens do I need for my riflescope?
The objective lens should be matched to the magnification of a scope. There is no easy way to answer this question but you should always look through a scope if you can before you purchase it to make sure it is a clear, bright view.
Which riflescope reticle should I choose?
I only recommend two reticles for new scope shooters. If you are predominantly a hunter, go with a plain reticle with few or no internal markings. For tactical and long-range optics, a standard mil-dot reticle would be preferred.
What is parallax?
The mechanics of parallax are complicated but identifying and dealing with it are not. Parallax is the shift the reticle to your eye or apparent reticle movement. It happens because of improper alignment of the scope with the eye or too much distance between your eye and the ocular lens. If you simply slide your head back and forth you should find a place where there is no black around the edges of the scope view. You are then parallax free.
Why are the scope adjustments always called windage and elevation?
It is true that the adjustments are truly horizontal and vertical but the use of the terms elevation and windage are very old and harken back to the history of distance shooting with artillery pieces. The terms have been in use for so long that it’s become the standard.
In modern use, these terms are true for scopes that adjust by turrets where you compensate for wind by adjusting the reticle left or right and elevate your bore in relation to the optical sight by adjusting the elevation knob.
What does the term MOA or Minute of Angle mean and why is it used?
This is another older phrase taken for artillery use. A MOA is 1/60th of a circle, it just so happens that it is also about 1 inch at 100 yards. It is used as a standard that is easily measured and understood. The only way it will ever need to be understood by a shooter is when he is making adjustments and is best just kept as roughly 1 inch at 100 yards.
Just to be clear though if you adjusted your scope 180 MOA you would be shooting backwards (half a circle) and 360 MOA would have you right back on target.